Research & Reviews : Journal of Herbal Science Original Research
A Review of Herbal Photoprotective Agents: From Traditional Knowledge to Modern Sunscreen Formulations
Abstract
Continuous exposure of skin to UV rays leads to tanning, premature aging, sunburn, pigmentation, and skin cancer. Sunscreens are widely used to protect the skin from these harmful stimuli. However, sunscreen components may interfere with other health concerns like irritation, itching, allergic reactions, and distinct environmental damage. This major concern initiated the introduction of herbal photoprotective agents, which are eco-friendly, safer for use, and rich in antioxidants (preventing free radicals). Since ancient times, people began depending on plant sources due to their potent biochemical properties, natural defense, and their truly favorable healing mechanisms. India has a rich history of Ayurveda and herbal remedies, which aids even the formulation of sunscreens. The presence of flavonoids, tannins, phenolic compounds, essential oils, and other phytochemicals of plants has shown potent photoprotective activity. Phytochemicals, like polyphenols, flavonoids, alkaloids, tannins, and terpenoids, have demonstrated their significant ability to reduce or prevent inflammation, UV-induced oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and carcinogenesis. This review traces the journey from traditional knowledge and ethnobotanical uses of sun-protective botanicals to contemporary approaches for isolating, characterizing, and formulating their active constituents into modern sunscreen products. Studies have reported that various Indian plants can reduce UV-induced oxidative stress and prevent cellular damage or death. Including UV protection, these plants also possess anti-aging, repair skin damage, reduce inflammation, and enhance collagen synthesis (maintaining elasticity of skin, arteries, and organs). This review highlights various Indian herbal photoprotective agents, phytochemicals involved, mechanisms of action (in vivo and in vitro), available herbal formulations, and their potential role in contemporary formulations
Keywords
References (33)
- Nguyen AV, Soulika AM. The Dynamics of the Skin’s Immune System. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2019;20(8):1811. doi:10.3390/ijms20081811
- Lauters R, Brown AD, Harrington KA. Melanoma: Diagnosis and treatment. Am Fam Physician. 2024 Oct;110(4):367–377.
- Neale RE, Khan SR, Lucas RM, Waterhouse M, Whiteman DC, Olsen CM. The effect of sunscreen on vitamin D: a review. British Journal of Dermatology. 2019;181(5):907-915. doi:10.1111/bjd.17980
- Wyatt C, Neale RE, Lucas RM. Skin Cancer and Vitamin D: An Update. Melanoma Management. 2015;2(1):51-61. doi:10.2217/mmt.14.31
- Rabinovich L, Kazlouskaya V. Herbal sun protection agents: Human studies. Clinics in Dermatology. 2018;36(3):369-375. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2018.03.014
- Li L, Chong L, Huang T, Ma Y, Li Y, Ding H. Natural products and extracts from plants as natural UV filters for sunscreens: A review. Animal Models and Experimental Medicine. 2022;6(3):183-195. doi:10.1002/ame2.12295
- Duale N, Olsen AK, Christensen T, Butt ST, Brunborg G. Octyl Methoxycinnamate Modulates Gene Expression and Prevents Cyclobutane Pyrimidine Dimer Formation but not Oxidative DNA Damage in UV-Exposed Human Cell Lines. Toxicological Sciences. 2010;114(2):272-284. doi:10.1093/toxsci/kfq005
- Cefali LC, Ataide JA, Moriel P, Foglio MA, Mazzola PG. Plant‐based active photoprotectants for sunscreens. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2016;38(4):346-353. doi:10.1111/ics.12316
- Gaweł-Bęben K, Strzępek-Gomółka M, Czop M, Sakipova Z, Głowniak K, Kukula-Koch W. Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts–Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use. Molecules. 2020;25(15):3368. doi:10.3390/molecules25153368
- Matts PJ, Alard V, Brown MW, Ferrero L, Gers‐Barlag H, Issachar N, et al. The COLIPA in vitro UVA method: a standard and reproducible measure of sunscreen UVA protection. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2010;32(1):35-46. doi:10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00542.x
- de Medeiros Gomes J, Cahino Terto MV, Golzio do Santos S, Sobral da Silva M, Fechine Tavares J. Seasonal Variations of Polyphenols Content, Sun Protection Factor and Antioxidant Activity of Two Lamiaceae Species. Pharmaceutics. 2021;13(1):110. doi:10.3390/pharmaceutics13010110
- Mejía‐Giraldo JC, Gallardo C, Puertas‐Mejía MA. Selected Extracts from High Mountain Plants as Potential Sunscreens with Antioxidant Capacity. Photochemistry and Photobiology. 2021;98(1):211-219. doi:10.1111/php.13490
- Muzaffer U, Paul VI, Prasad NR, Karthikeyan R, Agilan B. Protective effect of Juglans regia L. against ultraviolet B radiation induced inflammatory responses in human epidermal keratinocytes. Phytomedicine. 2018;42:100-111. doi:10.1016/j.phymed.2018.03.024
- Seregheti TMQ, Pinto APR, Gonçalves MDC, Antunes ADS, Almeida WADS, Machado RS, et al. Antiproliferative and photoprotective activities of the extracts and compounds from Calea fruticosa. Brazilian Journal of Medical and Biological Research. 2020;53(9). doi:10.1590/1414-431x20209375
- Mejía‐Giraldo JC, Henao‐Zuluaga K, Gallardo C, Atehortúa L, Puertas‐Mejía MA. Novel In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotection Capacity of Plants from High Altitude Ecosystems of Colombia. Photochemistry and Photobiology. 2015;92(1):150-157. doi:10.1111/php.12543
- Chen D, Du Z, Lin Z, Su P, Huang H, Ou Z, et al. The Chemical Compositions of Angelica pubescens Oil and Its Prevention of UV‐B Radiation‐Induced Cutaneous Photoaging. Chemistry & Biodiversity. 2018;15(10). doi:10.1002/cbdv.201800235
- Chen J, Ran M, Wang M, Liu X, Liu S, Ruan Z, et al. Evaluation of antityrosinase activity and mechanism, antioxidation, and UV filter properties of theaflavin. Biotechnology and Applied Biochemistry. 2021;69(3):951-962. doi:10.1002/bab.2166
- Baldisserotto A, Buso P, Radice M, Dissette V, Lampronti I, Gambari R, et al. Moringa oleifera Leaf Extracts as Multifunctional Ingredients for “Natural and Organic” Sunscreens and Photoprotective Preparations. Molecules. 2018;23(3):664. doi:10.3390/molecules23030664
- Mejía‐Giraldo JC, Gallardo C, Puertas‐Mejía MA. Selected Extracts from High Mountain Plants as Potential Sunscreens with Antioxidant Capacity. Photochemistry and Photobiology. 2021;98(1):211-219. doi:10.1111/php.13490
- Rabinovich L, Kazlouskaya V. Herbal sun protection agents: Human studies. Clinics in Dermatology. 2018;36(3):369-375. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2018.03.014
- Radice M, Manfredini S, Ziosi P, Dissette V, Buso P, Fallacara A, et al. Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review. Fitoterapia. 2016;114:144-162. doi:10.1016/j.fitote.2016.09.003
- Fonseca M, Rehman M, Soares R, Fonte P. The Impact of Flavonoid-Loaded Nanoparticles in the UV Protection and Safety Profile of Topical Sunscreens. Biomolecules. 2023;13(3):493. doi:10.3390/biom13030493
- AHMADY A, AMINI MH, ZHAKFAR AM, BABAK G, SEDIQI MN. Sun Protective Potential and Physical Stability of Herbal Sunscreen Developed from Afghan Medicinal Plants. Turkish Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2020;17(3):285-292. doi:10.4274/tjps.galenos.2019.15428
- Damiani E, Puglia C. Nanocarriers and Microcarriers for Enhancing the UV Protection of Sunscreens: An Overview. Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2019;108(12):3769-3780. doi:10.1016/j.xphs.2019.09.009
- Nascimento Júnior JAC, Santos AM, Oliveira AMS, Santos AB, de Souza Araújo AA, Aragón DM, et al. The Tiny Big Difference: Nanotechnology in Photoprotective Innovations – A Systematic Review. AAPS PharmSciTech. 2024;25(7). doi:10.1208/s12249-024-02925-4
- Jose J, Netto G. Role of solid lipid nanoparticles as photoprotective agents in cosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2018;18(1):315-321. doi:10.1111/jocd.12504
- Wei M, He X, Liu N, Deng H. Role of reactive oxygen species in ultraviolet-induced photodamage of the skin. Cell Division. 2024;19(1). doi:10.1186/s13008-024-00107-z
- Al-Sadek T, Yusuf N. Ultraviolet Radiation Biological and Medical Implications. Current Issues in Molecular Biology. 2024;46(3):1924-1942. doi:10.3390/cimb46030126
- Zhao C, Wu S, Wang H. Medicinal Plant Extracts Targeting UV-Induced Skin Damage: Molecular Mechanisms and Therapeutic Potential. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2025;26(5):2278. doi:10.3390/ijms26052278
- Lei X. Mechanisms and Therapeutic Roles of Medicinal Plants in Skin Photoaging. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2025;Volume18:1709-1726. doi:10.2147/ccid.s538326
- Kohli I, Shafi R, Isedeh P, Griffith JL, Al-Jamal MS, Silpa-archa N, et al. The impact of oral Polypodium leucotomos extract on ultraviolet B response: A human clinical study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2017;77(1):33-41.e1. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2017.01.044
- Nestor MS, Berman B, Swenson N. Safety and efficacy of oral Polypodium leucotomos extract in healthy adult subjects. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015 Feb;8(2):19–23.
- Katiyar SK. Skin Photoprotection by Green Tea: Antioxidant and Immunomodulatory Effects. Current Drug Targets - Immune, Endocrine & Metabolic Disorders. 2003;3(3):234-242. doi:10.2174/1568008033340171